![gridded softbox gridded softbox](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51sJMJZkgZL.jpg)
![gridded softbox gridded softbox](https://e-trade.com.pl/9519-thickbox_default/softbox-octa-95cm-grid.jpg)
The reason I like the rolling adjustable height of the stand is I can roll it in and out or up and down to easily remove the low catchlight saving time in post and instantly bring it up to waist level from touching the floor for the traditional clamshell shooting between the slot between the 2 modifiers. When I do clamshell it is usually a headshot. I don't boom there, but place the light to one side and feather the hot spot to the other side of the group to even it out and still give form.
#GRIDDED SOFTBOX FULL#
Only 10-15 percent of my purchases are full length and many of those are out doors. My boom arm is huge and I can't remember the last time I used it -yes I can, booming a camera with a fisheye lens over subjects) and think someone purchasing their first gear, that should be way down on the list. Another common use for a boom as a hair, shoulder light strikes me a so 90's and was a more common use for it in the past. Besides, I would recommend a novice start with one person before adding the complexity of two not to mention that beauty lighting is not flattering for most face shapes like loop or rembrandt is. Op said nothing about group shots and is just starting with lighting and probably doesn't have large groups to shoot. However, Op was talking about butterfly lighting and that is something I generally do with only one subject. I dont have one like yours above, but have a plate with a stud screwed to a piece of board that puts my bg light on the floor. JB, I have a short stand but it only goes down to about a foot. In second shot note how blue handle on lower tightens in direction of weight of the light View attachment 158755 View attachment 158756 Always "tighty righty." Lock tightens to right and weight of gear then pulls down in that direction tightening, not loosening. On bd arm, knuckle at stand should be in front so weight of gear at end of arm tightens, opposite here but just didn't bother because no one here but me and going to hang light at other end when done. Lower tinker toy arrangement gets me low clamshell/fill and no low catch light I have to remove in post. Could get away with the 20 inch instead of 40 inch arm but I like to counter balance at the other end.
![gridded softbox gridded softbox](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/godox_sb_nbm_50130_sb_nbm_50x130cm_softbox_bowens_1342032.jpg)
BD is further from stand than it even need be. Here is a photo of something I was testing, not sure what. I find with a bare head my einstein won't pivot around the end of a boom arm but hang any sort of modifier and it wants to slip. I use a stud to keep the head at about a 45 degree angle. For clam shell I use a rolling stand and only need the beauty dish or octa a foot or two from the stand to keep it out of the shot so use a solid steel 40 inch arm and use a knuckle on the stand to set the distance and angle. I'm with tired, you don't need a "boom arm" and those seem overkill for speedlights. In second shot note how blue handle on lower tightens in direction of weight of the light
![gridded softbox gridded softbox](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images2500x2500/angler_qo_dp36g_36_grid_f_quick_open_1485081.jpg)